Review
Aragawa, the legendary Tokyo steakhouse, opened its London branch in 2023. The restaurant specialises in carefully selected Tajima beef, grilled over Japanese binchotan charcoal. The sirloin from a 32-month-old Tajima Ooichi Kyodo cow was particularly memorable. Despite its A5 grading, the beef had a beautiful balance of fat and lean meat, with a delicate flavour. Tajima cattle, raised in Hyogo Prefecture, are among Japan’s most prized Wagyu breeds. The preparation is deceptively simple: the steak is seasoned with salt and pepper, grilled for three to four minutes on each side, then rested for ten minutes. The chef watches and listens closely as the meat cooks, judging the precise moment to remove it from the grill. Aragawa is undeniably expensive, although lunch offers better value.