Bar Santurce

Opened in 1977, Bar Santurce is an old school tavern by El Rastro, best known for its grilled sardines, served simply alongside Padrón peppers, and particularly good fried calamari. The place has changed little over the decades and remains especially busy on Sunday mornings, when the market is in full swing. Come for the food and atmosphere rather than comfort: the setting is decidedly rough around the edges, cleanliness can leave something to be desired and service can be brusque. It is a very particular Madrid experience, but one worth knowing what to expect from before you go.