Review
At Trattoria da Maria in Fano, 90-year-old Maria Tena still cooks every dish herself, opening the doors only when fishermen from her trusted network bring in the day’s catch. In an era when such authentic places are disappearing, this small trattoria stands as a rare treasure on the Adriatic coast.
Run together with her daughter, Domenica Tamati, the restaurant embodies simplicity and tradition. The setting is unpretentious, marked by quirky sculptures and an eclectic soundtrack, while the cooking remains entirely focused on the sea. Just three local boats supply the kitchen, and if there is no fish, the restaurant remains closed.
The menu shifts daily depending on the catch: a traditional brodetto fish stew, polenta with clams, or the exquisite platters of steamed fish and crustaceans that have become Maria’s signature. Rooted in recipes passed down from her aunt and prepared with minimal intervention, her cuisine reflects the purest expression of the Adriatic.

Editor’s Highlights
- Brodetto
- Polenta with clams
- Platter of steamed fish and crustaceans







