Review
Newly opened on Hanover Square, Mazarine is a French seafood restaurant set within the same building as Mandarin Oriental Mayfair. The kitchen is led by chef Thierry Laborde, classically trained in France, including under Alain Ducasse at Le Louis XV, before moving to London where he worked at Le Gavroche during the city’s early bistronomy years.
The cooking is focused on fish and seafood, guided by restraint and clarity rather than display. Produce is predominantly wild-caught, sourced mainly from British and French waters, and treated with minimal intervention to preserve its natural character. What sets Mazarine apart is a quiet sense of soul and purpose, closer in spirit to a true seafood table than a typical London restaurant, and already notable for the sincerity of its cooking.
Editor’s Highlights
- Toasted brioche, Aquitaine caviar
- Croque monsieur, black truffle, blue lobster
- Smoked eel croquette, Comté cheese, lychee, horseradish
- Niçoise salad, crispy vegetables, olives, tuna confit
- Sardines, caramelised onions, Lucques olives
- Warmed artichoke, lemon and anchovy vinaigrette
- Bluefin tuna tartare, Grandjean olive oil
- Bluefin tuna, classic peppercorn sauce