Review
When Japanese chef Masahiro Kawai—known as “Masa”—took over Chez Michel in 2015, he inherited more than just a Paris institution. Founded in 1939 and long rooted in the traditions of French terroir cooking, the restaurant has passed through several hands, each leaving a distinct mark. Masa, trained in Japan, Spain, and France, brings his own sensibility: respectful of heritage, yet open to subtle references to Niigata, his native region, and the cuisines that shaped him.
The spirit here is one of generosity—hearty, slow-cooked dishes, alongside a few Breton signatures kept in homage to his predecessor Thierry Breton. Now and then, Masa adds a discreet touch of Japan or Spain, but always within the framework of honest bistronomie. Just steps from Gare du Nord, Chez Michel remains a soulful and enduring address.