Amarante

Steps away from Bastille, Amarante is chef’s Christophe Philippe’s address dedicated to straightforward French cooking. Cuts rarely seen elsewhere—veal tongue, pig’s trotter, sweetbreads—are given careful treatment: thinly sliced tongue, trotter as a crisp cake, whole roasted sweetbreads with potato purée. Everything prepared with honesty and simplicity. Desserts keep the same spirit, from perfectly runny Saint Nectaire to dark São Tomé chocolate mousse.